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I've had a few people ask me for advice on transitioning lately, so I've decided to add my two cents to all of the resources out there for transitioning into natural hair (including YouTube, and the books - Thank God I’m Natural: The Ultimate Guide to Caring for and Maintaining Natural Hair by Chris-tia Donaldson and Transition: Secrets of a Long Term Transition From Relaxed to Natural by Mane and Chic). Both times that I went natural ('01, and in '06-'07) I pretty much followed the same process. I had a very short relaxed haircut that I grew out for a month or two. The first time I transitioned I got a weave (that covered up the really short parts), and had my hair cut into a twa. The second time I transitioned, I twice had my hair braided with extensions over the course of 5 months. I then big chopped and had a lovely little twa.
About the choice to go natural
The great thing about going natural is that unless your relaxer is actively harming you and your hair, you have all the time in the world to make that decision. You don't have to rush into anything. When the time is right for you you'll do it.
Steps for going natural
Step one is simple: Stop relaxing your hair. Step two: Cut off your relaxed (and heat damaged) ends. Step three: Figure out care and maintenance. Step four: Love your natural hair. (You may reverse steps two, three and four). TRANSITION COMPLETE! OK I am oversimplifying... it may take some time to get from one step to the next, and the order of your steps may vary. I just hope that you complete all four steps.
Care and maintenance
The most important rule for transitioning is this: You must keep your hair moisturized. Without moisture, your hair will break off where your new growth meets your relaxer. You have to keep your hair (and particularly your new growth) moisturized.
I can't guaranty what will work best for your hair, but I really love Herbal Essence's Hello Hydration shampoo and conditioner and Trader Joe's Tea Tree Tingle shampoo and conditioner - they are inexpensive and very moisturizing, and are great products to start with. Do you know about co-washing? It is washing your hair with conditioner instead of shampoo (which at times can be drying), and it is a good way to keep your hair moisturized. I wash my hair with conditioner about 3x as often as I wash with shampoo. Note that you may wish to wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo, occasionally, in order to avoid product buildup (which can actually prevent your hair from retaining moisture).
After I condition my hair (or co-wash) I use a leave-in conditioner (I started with an Herbal Essence leave-in called Long Term Relationship, then created my own that I sometimes still use) but right now I use either Taliah Wajjid's Black Earth line or Jane Carter Solution leave-in's. And I have found that oils are great for my natural hair - olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, and castor oil are all good. I generally rub a little melted coconut oil or jojoba oil (or olive or grape seed oil or now that it is colder a little castor oil) from the roots to the tips of my natural hair after I use a leave-in conditioner. Finally, I use a product with some shea butter - like Cantu Shea Butter conditioner or a Shea Moisture product to style my hair. For those of you with fine hair, it seems that products that are lighter - such as aloe based products with little to no shea butter may help you keep your moisture without weighing your hair down. I also recommend deep conditioning on a regular basis (either with a plastic cap and some time or under a hooded dryer) with a product that you like - possibly a protein based conditioner.
I haven't used steamers because I allow steam my hair in the shower daily, but I have heard a great many testimonials about the benefits of using a steam machine such as the Huetiful Steamer.
To braid or not to braid?
The real question here is: How do you choose to protect your hair during your transition period? If you choose not to have your hair braided or weaved during your transition - I would suggest that you start doing low manipulation protective styling. These may include buns (done on freshly washed or co-washed hair), twist-outs (both two-strand and flat twist), roller sets, and whichever styles you think will suit you! The key is to find styles that will mask the disparity between your two textures. The styles listed above generally result in curls and waves. They are quite versatile and do an excellent job of blending your two textures. Remember, however, that if and when you attempt these or other new styles, you may need to use rollers on your straight ends in order to have a more integrated style.
Please try to avoid heat styling during your transition. Despite my using heat during the first part of my transition because it was too short to braid, twist, or curl (and because I wanted to blend the two textures), I will caution you against regular heat styling. While some people are able to use heat when transitioning, it is generally best to avoid its use on your new growth. Improper heat application can change your natural curl pattern, and if you fail to exercise proper care, you may damage the natural hair that you are trying to maintain.
As I said earlier, when you begin to see your new growth you may want to get it braided with extensions or a weave. Some people also begin wearing wigs at this stage and may keep their own hair braided underneath. I believe that braids and weaves make the process easier - if you intend to have a gradual transition period. It allows one to transition without having to regularly deal with managing two different hair textures. This does not mean that you can skimp on moisturizing your hair. Please continue to condition your hair regularly, and moisturize it with braid sprays or other leave in conditioners. Finally, with wigs, braids, or weaves one is less likely to use heat, and will therefore reduce the chances of having heat damage.
Follow-up
In any event - the keys to transitioning are moisture, patience, and an open mind! Use the resources around you - YouTube, family and friends that have transitioned, and blogs like this one (and CurlyNikki, and ManeandChic, and MopTopMaven, and NaturalChica, and CurlsCoilsandKinks, etc. - all blogs that I've discovered and learned from since going natural). Also there are wonderful books out there about the actual science behind caring for, growing, and maintaining your hair, such as: The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care by Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, and Grow It: How to Grow Afro-Textured Hair to Maximum Lengths in the Shortest Time by Chicoro. Again, although I can only share my story, I hope that my two cents will help you on your hair journey.
Don't forget to check out One Hairstyle, Thirty-One Ways by Naturally Twisted, available on Smashwords and Amazon for over thirty styles created or modified for your natural hair!
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Unknown - Monday, November 14, 2011

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