I was talking to a co-worker the other day about hair health and maintenance, and during the conversation, she mentioned that wetting our hair could actually be damaging. She mentioned that because of pH levels, (our hair's natural pH versus tap water's pH) we could be stripping our hair of moisture. I had never considered the possibility that using water to moisturize could ultimately end up having the exact opposite effect....
So I've done a LITTLE research into pH levels - of hair, tap water, and of some of the things that I put in my hair to rinse or refresh my twists.....Apparently the pH scale goes from 0 (Highly Acidic) to 14 (Highly Alkaline) with 7 being neutral. Alkalies will open the cuticle (allowing moisture into or out of our strands) and acids will flatten the cuticle (trapping moisture in our strands).
Hair is generally slightly acidic, with a an average pH of 4.5 - 5.5. A pH level that is above our natural levels will result in dull hair, split ends, breakage and hair with a rough texture. With a lowered pH level (below 4.5) hair will become so constricted that it will actually be resistant to moisture and moisturizing hair products. So if we are opening our cuticles with water - since it is more of an alkali than our natural pH, then we are letting moisture in and ultimately out, unless we use something slightly acidic to close the cuticle and trap the moisture in our hair.
So, if alkalies open the cuticle, and acids will close/flatten it, we can decide on what to use in conjunction with water to keep our strands moisturized. It seems like slightly acidic products would work best. I generally use:
Coconut oil - pH level of 4.6
Jojoba oil - pH level of 4.5 to 5.5
Grape seed oil - pH level of 3.83
Castor oil - pH level of 6 to 7
Aloe vera juice - pH level of around 3.4 - 4.5
Aloe vera gel - pH level of 4.3
Apple cider vinegar - pH level of 2.8 to 3.0
Based on my brief online research, it seems that some of the stuff that I use in my twists may not be great for my twists as a stand alone, post-wash rinse or sealing tool. For the most part however I have been using ingredients that will generally close the cuticles and keep my twists moisturized.... but I will keep all of this in mind on those days when I think that a quick water rinse is a good idea....
So I've done a LITTLE research into pH levels - of hair, tap water, and of some of the things that I put in my hair to rinse or refresh my twists.....Apparently the pH scale goes from 0 (Highly Acidic) to 14 (Highly Alkaline) with 7 being neutral. Alkalies will open the cuticle (allowing moisture into or out of our strands) and acids will flatten the cuticle (trapping moisture in our strands).
Hair is generally slightly acidic, with a an average pH of 4.5 - 5.5. A pH level that is above our natural levels will result in dull hair, split ends, breakage and hair with a rough texture. With a lowered pH level (below 4.5) hair will become so constricted that it will actually be resistant to moisture and moisturizing hair products. So if we are opening our cuticles with water - since it is more of an alkali than our natural pH, then we are letting moisture in and ultimately out, unless we use something slightly acidic to close the cuticle and trap the moisture in our hair.
So, if alkalies open the cuticle, and acids will close/flatten it, we can decide on what to use in conjunction with water to keep our strands moisturized. It seems like slightly acidic products would work best. I generally use:
Coconut oil - pH level of 4.6
Jojoba oil - pH level of 4.5 to 5.5
Grape seed oil - pH level of 3.83
Castor oil - pH level of 6 to 7
Aloe vera juice - pH level of around 3.4 - 4.5
Aloe vera gel - pH level of 4.3
Apple cider vinegar - pH level of 2.8 to 3.0
Based on my brief online research, it seems that some of the stuff that I use in my twists may not be great for my twists as a stand alone, post-wash rinse or sealing tool. For the most part however I have been using ingredients that will generally close the cuticles and keep my twists moisturized.... but I will keep all of this in mind on those days when I think that a quick water rinse is a good idea....
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Unknown - Monday, May 30, 2011
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